Easter

Easter was an odd day in Madrid.  We saw another small procession, but this time the street performers were starting to compete with them.  All morning, I could hear the jazz band playing "Hit the Road Jack" in the Puerta del Sol, but when the Easter procession started down the street, the jazz band wasn't backing down.  As the drums of the procession drew nearer the Puerta del Sol they beat their drums very loudly and the jazz band finally relented and let the procession take over.  It was like they had shouted them down.  But not long after they arrived in the Puerta, the procession broke up and the jazz band began playing "When the Saints Come Marching In".  Either the Madrileños were over the Easter festivities or the street performers were tired of losing out on their tips.

Easter is a major national holiday in Spain.  Business is closed from Thursday through Sunday, and in some cases, Monday.  The weather was beautiful this year and everyone was outdoors enjoying the springtime sun, walking and cycling; it was spring break vacation.  But something seemed odd during all the Semana Santa (holy week) processions and I finally put my finger on it  Easter afternoon.  While they were elaborate and uber Catholic, I never saw anyone who was emotionally caught up in them.  The religious icons that they carry are very dramatic and clearly designed to evoke religious passion, but I never saw it.  The crowd was respectful, but acted more like a crowd going to see Fourth of July fireworks, than a religious ceremony.  It was clearly a social event for them. They were talking and laughing with one another and eating bocadillos, but watched the procession with detached respect as it passed by, like one might watch the funeral procession of a stranger.  I know that mine is just an outsider's observation, but it seems that Catholicism is more cultural than religious here.

However, I understand that Andalucía is more somber and emotional.  The Semana Santa processions are more extensive there and the people are more passionate.  Many of them are also done in total silence; thousands of people in the streets and no one speaks.  It must be a powerful experience.  But still, I've heard that others there have bands and chanting, with wailing and a lot of dramatics.  Andalucía is really the place to experience Semana Santa in Spain; Madrid is kind of Semana Santa Light ...

In the Plaza Mayor, Chris and I have seen a street performer with a great schtick.  He´s a pot-bellied, out of shape middle aged guy who dresses up like Spiderman, doing superhero poses with members of the crowd.  He is so engaging that he keeps the crowd in stitches.  Here's a video of him: