Sunday

Sundays find the streets of Madrid filled with people shopping, eating, and generally on paseo. I stopped in to a stand-up pastry and coffee shop for breakfast to (literally) rub shoulders with the locals. Spain has incredibly good pastries. It feels good to be able to order, chat, and pay for breakfast without asking them to repeat themselves. My grammar is bad, but at least I’m understood.

In the Puerta del Sol this afternoon, there were Mickey Mouse, Square Bob Sponge Pants, an American Indian Chief, and Mario Brothers. Sigh. Don’t these people know that they’re ruining my experience? And, get this: there were Mariachis singing and playing in full regalia, in front of KFC, right in the Plaza de Espana! Gasp. I’m quite certain that the end is nigh.

Thoroughly shaken, I stumbled to the only place where I might find solace: The Catedral de Santa María la Real de la Almudena. It’s a crazy mix of architectural styles, but a cathedral none the less. Inside there were piped-in recordings of gregorian chants ... hmm, and flat screen monitors everywhere ... eeek! (thank God they were turned off while I was there). There were the usual soaring gothic vaults and gold leaf bling on the side altars. But when did they change out the votive candles with electric ones under plexiglass?? Make an offering and push a button? WTF is that?!? Oh, and notice the electric cord plugged into the wall in the photo ... nice touch.

As disconcerting as the afternoon was, I popped in to a small cafe for the “plato del dia” for a late lunch. It was Paella Valenciana. So I thought, it’s the daily special; the special has to be good, right? It was a plate of yellow rice with some grilled red peppers on top, and one, yes one, ring of octopus on top. Before I ordered it the waiter made sure that I understood that it was paella de mariscos (seafood), and not chicken. I considered pointing out afterward that it was technically marisco, not mariscos. But not wanting to be an ugly American, I just went home.